Updated October 26, 2026
What kind of survey you have
Most buyers commission a condition and valuation survey (often called a C&V, or a pre-purchase survey). It records the boat's condition system by system, lists deficiencies and recommendations, and gives the surveyor's opinion of market value. BoatUS notes that the condition and value survey is the usual choice when buying.[1]
Insurance surveys are narrower: they focus on safety and the items an underwriter cares about. If you're buying, a C&V is the document to negotiate from. Typical pricing is quoted per foot of boat length; BoatUS puts it at roughly $20 to $22 per foot and warns that a much cheaper quote deserves questions.[1]
Read the findings list first, not page one
Surveys are written in order of the boat, not in order of importance. Skip straight to the section usually titled Findings and Recommendations, Deficiencies, or Summary. That's where the surveyor lists what needs attention, often ranked.
Many surveyors rank items with letters or labels. A common pattern is:
- Priority A, Safety, or Critical: correct before the boat is used. Often tied to Coast Guard carriage requirements or a hazard such as fuel, fire or flooding.
- Priority B or Recommendations: real problems that should be fixed soon, and the items most worth discussing with the seller.
- Priority C, Notes or Observations: maintenance and cosmetic items, or things the surveyor couldn't inspect.
The labels vary by surveyor. Read the survey's own definitions (usually near the front or at the top of the findings section) before you assume what 'B' means.
Learn the five phrases that carry the most weight
| The survey says | What it usually means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Recommend further investigation | The surveyor saw a symptom but couldn't confirm the cause or extent on survey day. | Treat it as an unknown cost. Ask what the investigation involves and get it done before you close if it could be expensive. |
| Elevated moisture readings | A moisture meter read higher in one area than its surroundings. Meters give relative readings, not a percentage of water.[2] | Ask where, how high relative to dry areas, and whether a yard should sound or core-sample it. |
| Not inspected / not accessible | Something was out of reach: behind panels, under tanks, or aloft. | This is not a clean bill of health. Ask whether it matters for this boat. |
| Does not meet ABYC standards | The American Boat & Yacht Council writes the voluntary standards most US builders and surveyors work to.[3] | Ask whether it's a safety issue or a best-practice gap, and what correcting it involves. |
| Serviceable / appears serviceable | Working and in acceptable condition for its age when inspected. | Usually nothing to do. 'Appears' means it wasn't tested under load. |
Sort every finding into four piles
Once you can read the list, give each item one of four labels. It turns a long document into a decision:
- Fix: safety items, active leaks, anything that gets worse or causes damage, and items the surveyor calls required.
- Negotiate: real defects that existed before the sale and cost real money. These are what you raise with the seller.
- Watch: things to monitor or fold into routine maintenance.
- Ignore: cosmetic wear, normal aging and notes for the record.
Then put a rough cost next to every Fix and Negotiate item. Even a wide range is useful: it tells you whether the survey changes the deal by hundreds of dollars or by tens of thousands.
Check the valuation against the asking price
The surveyor's fair market value is an opinion based on comparable sales and the boat's condition. If the asking price is above it, and the survey adds repair costs, you have two separate reasons to talk about price.
Call your surveyor
Surveyors expect questions. A ten-minute call to ask 'which three of these would you fix first, and which worry you?' is often the most valuable part of what you paid for. Bring a short list, and ask about anything marked as not inspected.
Professional bodies such as the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors[4] and the National Association of Marine Surveyors[5] publish member directories and standards, which is also where to look if you need a second opinion.
Questions
How long should a marine survey be?
It depends on the boat and the surveyor's format. The pre-purchase surveys we've read for boats in the 20 to 45 foot range ran 20 to 55 pages, mostly equipment description. The findings list is usually a few pages.
Should I walk away if the survey has a lot of findings?
Not necessarily. Almost every used boat has findings. What matters is how many are safety or structural items, and what the fix and negotiate items add up to against the price. Your surveyor is the right person to ask how concerned to be.
Can the seller see my survey?
You paid for it, so it's yours to share or not. Many buyers share the relevant pages to support a price adjustment request.
Have your survey already?
Upload it and get every finding sorted into fix, negotiate, watch or ignore, with the surveyor's page and words beside each one.
Get a free previewSources
- 8 Things A Marine Surveyor Wants You To Know, BoatUS. Industry group. Accessed 2026-10-26.
- Moisture Meters: Can You Trust Them? We Test Five Models, Practical Sailor. Boating publication. Accessed 2026-10-26.
- ABYC Standards, American Boat & Yacht Council. Industry group. Accessed 2026-10-26.
- Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors, SAMS. Industry group. Accessed 2026-10-26.
- National Association of Marine Surveyors, NAMS. Industry group. Accessed 2026-10-26.